Bounty of the Deep

The largest fish market in Italy is in Chioggia, a historic city at the southern end of the Venetian lagoon. In a short stroll along the busy waterfront from the Corso del Popolo to the Canal Vena, a visitor will see fisherman unloading bass, cod, eel, sardines, monkfish, turbot, dory, mackerel and dozens of other fishes alongside razor clams, mussels, oysters, scallops, squid, octopus, lobsters, and spider crabs – all of it fresh and ready for the kitchen.

Every point of the Italian compass has a different fish story to tell. In Calabria, Italy’s “toe,” an annual summer festival honors the pesce spada, or swordfish, taken from the Straits of Messina. Off the southwest coast of Sicily every May and June, fishermen use an ancient arrangement of nets to herd 1,800-pound bluefin tuna to the Mattanza, or annual harvest. In the Ligurian waters not far from Columbus’ jumping-off point of Genoa, fisherman line the wharves with anchovies, sardines, and mackerel. The high country prizes its seafood, too – the lakes and rivers that give mountainous Lombardy its charm also give it trout, perch, whitefish, and sturgeon.

From the Boat to the Table

There are as many Italian seafood recipes as there are types of fish in the sea. But as with all Italian cooking, two rules apply: the ingredients must be as fresh as possible, and the preparations simple enough to let their flavor shine through.

Buying fresh fish is literally a hands-on experience. Start by giving the flesh a poke; it should rebound firmly. If the impression of your finger remains, move on. The next thing to look for is bright red gills and eyes that are still clear and lively. The most reliable instrument for detecting sub-par fish is your nose! With shellfish, a fresh odor is also important. Live crabs and lobsters should show movement when picked up, though it’s okay if refrigerated ones are sluggish. Clams, mussels and oysters—purchased live when possible—should have their shells tightly closed, or should close them when tapped. Shrimp should be firm to the touch, like fish.

One crowd-pleasing dish that reflects Italian maritime traditions is cioppino, also known as zuppa di pesce, a hearty dish that fisherman originally made while out at sea. Some call it a soup; some call it a stew. Try it once and you’ll see it doesn’t matter! Before the cold weather is completely over, you may also want to try Italian fish soup with orzo and sea bass and asparagus soup.

Italians love to combine seafood with pasta all year long. Spaghetti with clams, in either a tomato-based red sauce or a garlicky white sauce, is a favorite in many homes. A slightly more adventurous take on the same theme is angel hair with bay scallops, shrimp, and arugula, which provides a whole meal in one dish and is easy to make for parties of any size.

Throughout the world, larger fish such as tuna, salmon, or swordfish are commonly cut into steaks for grilling, baking, or broiling. Italians bring extra flavor to these delicacies with savory herb marinades, the aroma of fresh basil, or tangy, ripe olives – all accompanied by extra virgin olive oil. You may also want to try these firm-fleshed fish in recipes that include rotini and peas or spaghetti, zucchini, and oregano.

Seafood is popular in the United States, especially in an age of reliable refrigeration and fast transport that lets people enjoy fresh fish hundreds of miles inland. But our seafood traditions can’t compare to the ones in Italy, where people have been drawing life from the sea for hundreds of generations. With a little experimentation, you can bring those tastes, smells, and requests for second helpings to your own family table.