Fragrant and flavorful are two adjectives that come to mind when trying to conjure up the effusive, magical quality of Liguria. Graced with 220 miles of coastline and ringed by mountains, the region’s sweet-smelling breezes carry the life-affirming scents of the sea, herbs, flowers, and pine trees.  In the bustling naval and commercial port of Genoa (dubbed by the locals as La Superba) gave birth not only to the legendary seamen Christopher Columbus and Andrea Doria, but to the flavorful sauce known as pesto; its aroma almost seems to permeate the entire city. High above the rocky coast are the five picturesque villages of the Cinque Terre, which is quickly becoming a must-see destination for travelers.  Further along the terraced hillsides, the weather is ideal for the growing of olives – stable temperatures, bright sun in a clear sky all year round – and the result is some of Italy’s most refined olive oils, with a delicate flavor that rivals those produced in Tuscany.

Ligurian cuisine is nicknamed cucina del ritorno, or “homecoming” cooking, a tribute to the seamen who would return home after months at sea (and to their wives, who would cook them the dishes they had been sorely missing). But it also describes the Ligurians’ overall approach to their food: they like use the products of their own region almost exclusively in their cooking. Fish dominates the menu, appearing in mouth-watering soups, stews and salads. Fresh local vegetables and herbs, savory cakes and pies, and candied fruits and sweet breads complete the menu.  In everything, the flavors are true and strong – not unlike the character of the people who have inhabited this boomerang-shaped land for hundreds of years.

Specialty Foods of Liguria

There is a saying that he who eats pesto never leaves Genoa, the stronghold of this delicious sauce, rich with the flavors of fresh basil, olive oil, garlic, pine nuts, and cheese.  Traditionally, the ingredients are put in a mortar and pounded with a pestle until a smooth sauce emerges. Pesto is popular throughout the world, but small-leafed Ligurian basil, grown in herb gardens buffeted by sea breezes, is arguably the best in the world.  (For an authentic Italian pesto experience, made with only the finest natural ingredients, try Barilla Restaurant Creations Sugo alla Genovese pasta sauce.)

True Ligurian focaccia is not the pizza-like bread we enjoy here in America.  As Liguria’s salty air and humidity makes it difficult to bake good bread and keep it from spoiling quickly, the Ligurians devised a bread that can be eaten hot out of the oven. This unleavened, thin, flat bread is usually topped with olive oil and salt, and in some areas, sage, cheese or onions.

Did the Ligurians bring pasta to Italy, as they still claim today? Whether it’s true or not, they have created several delightful types that are local specialties.  Pansotti are a triangle-shaped ravioli-style pasta, stuffed with a mixture of vegetables (such as swiss chard, borage, and endive) and ricotta cheese, and are often served with salsa di noci, a walnut sauce. Trenette, made from whole wheat flour, come in long, flat strips, either fresh or dried, and like trofie, a spiral-shaped gnocchi, are served with a sauce made from boiled beans, potatoes, and pesto.

Food Festivals of Liguria

Biscette Festival
Solva di Alassio (March)
Biscette is a typical cake from the Loanese area, made with hazelnuts, flour, and sugar, bound together using orange flower water and then fried in olive oil. It is shaped to resemble a snake in commemoration of an ancient legend in which a hermit repels an invasion of snakes and vipers.

Herbs Festival
Andora (June)
Local nursery owners display and sell their plants and herbs – especially the delicate Ligurian pesto – in the parks and streets.

Red Garlic Fair
Vessalico (July)
A celebration of red garlic, the production of which is extremely limited: only 3,000 plaits of garlic, each with 24 heads, are harvested each year.