Italian cheese, like Italian wine, is complex. There are countless varieties that hail from every region of the country, each with its own distinct personality that stems from how and where it is produced.  But the quality that all Italian cheeses share is simple: they are delicious. In Italy, most cheeses are made from either cow’s milk or sheep’s milk. In general, cow’s-milk cheeses originate in northern Italy and its mountains, while sheep’s-milk cheeses, like pecorini and caprini, are more commonly produced in the south. The big exception is authentic mozzarella, which comes from a more exotic animal: the buffalo.
(The mozzarella we enjoy here in America is made from cow’s milk; see below.)

Beyond their different animal origins, Italian cheeses offer a wide variety of textures, colors, aromas and flavors. These variations are caused by many factors: the climate the cheese is produced in, the foods the animals eat, and the traditions and techniques of the cheese producers. Like wine, the aging of cheese has a big effect on its flavor; some cheeses are specifically made to be eaten “young,” or fresh, while others are best after aging for several months or a year or more.  Some cheese makers even say that the season of the year when the milk is collected can make a difference: a cheese can taste different if it is made in the spring or the fall.

The variety of Italian cheeses is matched only by the countless ways generations of Italian cooks have used them. Cheese can grated and sprinkled over soups and pastas, added to stuffings and sauces, or toasted, roasted, or fried. Cheeses that are sweetened with honey or sugar, or a sweet cheese like mascarpone, are used in delicious desserts like cheesecake. In many parts of Italy (and increasingly, in fine restaurants in America), cheese takes a starring role in its own “cheese course,” a great way to end a meal.  And don’t forget that a simple piece of authentic Italian cheese, a hunk of crusty bread and a glass of vino makes a terrific snack. 

Several varieties of Italian cheese maintain their authenticity and distinctive character because their production is strictly regulated by the government. Cheeses such as Gorgonzola, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Asiago are protected by consortiums that oversee their production and labeling – they can be labeled as such only if they come from a specific designated region and are produced according to stringent standards.

Cheeses produced in Italy are available everywhere throughout the United States. Many of the most popular varieties also are produced in America, in varying quality. Compare a piece of your favorite Italian cheese made in America to a piece of the same cheese imported from Italy. Your palate is the best tester!  A full roster of Italian cheeses is nearly impossible, but this short list of “greatest hits” should be known by any lover of Italian food:

Asiago is a whole, semi-cooked cow’s milk cheese typical of the Veneto and Trentino regions of northern Italy. Yellow with a glossy rind, Asiago’s mild, nutty flavor intensifies with aging. Asiago is good for grating when it has been aged over one year. Asiago cheese is certified by the Italian Consortium designated to protect the quality and origin of Asiago cheese.

Mozzarella is the most popular cheese in America. A delicate, mild, fresh cheese with a creamy white color, mozzarella is made by a spinning and cutting process (the Italian verb mozzare means “to cut”). It has a semi-soft, elastic texture that melts easily and well suited for use in cooking, especially on pizza and in baked pasta dishes. In the United States, mozzarella is factory-produced from whole or part-skim cow’s milk. Mozzarella di bufala, from the Campania region of Italy, is the most prized of the fresh mozzarella cheeses. This hand-stretched cheese, made from buffalo milk, is packaged in water and has a mild, creamy taste. Buffalo mozzarella made in the United States, unless otherwise stated, is made from a combination of water buffalo milk and cow’s milk. It is pure white in color and should be purchased as fresh as possible, as it is very perishable.  It should be used soon after purchasing. 

Mascarpone is a rich, sweet, double- or triple-fat, fresh cow’s milk cheese, milky white in color and with the aroma of milk and cream. It spreads easily and is similar in texture to stiff whipped cream, making it great for pastry fillings (such as in the wonderful dessert tiramisu), or served simply topped with fresh fruit. In the United States, mascarpone is usually made in Vermont or Wisconsin; in Italy, it hails from the Lombardy region. It’s best to use mascarpone within a few days of purchase.

Fontina, a semi-soft, creamy cow’s milk cheese with a mild flavor, has a pale yellow color and a golden brown outer rind. In Italy, Fontina is best known as a table cheese, but since it melts so evenly, it is a great cheese for cream sauces or fillings. When buying, look for Fontina that has a uniform color, with a firm, un-cracked rind; be sure it is not too crumbly or dry. It’s best used within two weeks of purchase, but will last for up to 45 days in the refrigerator.

Gorgonzola cheese is unique among Italian cheeses. This rich, creamy semi-soft cow’s milk cheese, with its tangy-peppery flavor, is ivory-colored, with blue-green veins running throughout.  These are produced by pricking the cheese with long metal needles, which exposes the cheese to air and subsequently forms mold. Gorgonzola dates back to the 9th century, and traditionally, it was made and aged in caves surrounding the village of Gorgonzola near Milan, Italy. Since 1970, the production of Gorgonzola cheese in Italy has been strictly controlled by the Consortium for the Production of Gorgonzola cheese. Only the milk from herds bred in two Italian regions (Piedmont and Lombardy) may be used in the production of authentic Italian Gorgonzola. Store Gorgonzola in the refrigerator wrapped in foil to keep it moist; it will keep for several weeks. Avoid cheese with dry, cracked edges, an uneven texture, or unpleasant or “off” odors.

Grana Padano is a semi-fat hard cheese, matured slowly over a period of 16 months to over two years. (Grana means “grainy” in Italian, which describes its appearance.) With its fragrantly sweet flavor, it is commonly used for table or grating cheese. When purchasing, look for the four-leaf clover chiseled into the rind. This symbol guarantees that the product has been certified by the Grana Padano Consortium and that it is genuine Italian Grana Padano. Store this cheese wrapped in foil in the refrigerator at around 40◦F.

Parmigiano-Reggiano is a classic, prestigious parmesan cheese made from cow’s milk, which is aged naturally for 18 to 36 months. It has a delicate, invitingly fragrant aroma, ranges from a pale cream color to a deep yellow, straw color, and has a rich, yet slightly salty taste and grainy texture. No preservatives, colorings or others additives are ever used in its production. Parmigiano-Reggiano is traditionally made in 80-pound wheels and is used for grating or served in chunks as a table cheese. In Italy, the trademark Parmigiano-Reggiano is protected by specific laws exclusively reserved for cheese a region between Parma and the Reggio Emilia provinces. Rigorous standards, also established by Italian laws, determine the methods used in the production of this regional cheese. The Italian Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is the official society that protects the quality of this cheese and certifies it with the unmistakable “Parmigiano-Reggiano” stamp that is engraved with little dots on the rind of each wheel of cheese. Store in the refrigerator wrapped in foil.

Pecorino: In Italy, cheese that is made from sheep’s milk and then aged is known  as pecorino. Pecorino cheeses originate from the islands of Sardinia and Sicily. These cheeses are mild-tasting when they are young and develop a sharp flavor and a hard, granular texture as they age. Pecorino cheeses range in color from white to pale yellow. Used most commonly as a grating cheese, it also makes a good table cheese. Wrap pecorino cheeses in heavy paper and store in the bottom of the refrigerator. Unaged pecorino will keep two to four weeks, and aged pecorino will last indefinitely. Pecorino Romano is saltier and firmer than other pecorino cheeses. It is made in a large cylinder shape and has a hard yellow rind with a whitish- yellow interior. It is often used interchangeably in recipes that call for Parmesan cheese. The term Romano doesn’t refer to the location of this cheese’s production, but rather to the Romans, who began making it 2 000 years ago. In Italy, there is a Consortium of Pecorino Romano Cheese that regulates its production with a rigorous set of quality standards.

Provolone is made with full-fat cow’s milk, has a smooth shiny outer rind, and is a light cream color inside. The color becomes a richer yellow as the cheese ripens. A firm, mellow-to-sharp, smoky, and slightly salty-tasting cheese, provolone is often used in sandwiches or on pizza. It’s best when used a short time after purchasing, but wrapped in foil it will keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator. Provolone cheese also may be frozen and thawed overnight in the refrigerator to use.

Ricotta: This fresh, soft, creamy white cheese is made from the whey after it is separated from the curd during heating. The strained whey is then heated again (ricotta means “re-cooked” in Italian). In Italy, ricotta is made from sheep’s milk, while ricotta made in the United States is from whole or partly skimmed cow’s milk. Ricotta cheese has sweet nutlike flavor and can range from moist to dry in texture. Ricotta is perishable and will keep in the refrigerator up to one week. Avoid ricotta cheese that smells sharp or fruity, since this indicates the cheese is no longer fresh.