Piemonte means “the foot of the mountains,” and during the fall, the region’s imposing Alpine ranges are transformed as the leaves change color and mist drapes the hillsides and valleys. This is perhaps the most magical time of the year here, the time for hunting truffles and wild game, gathering nuts, harvesting grapes, or sitting around the fire with a bottle of one of the region’s top wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera – and talking long into the night. Even in the region’s most modern city, Turin, the time-honored, “old-fashioned” traditions of the countryside and mountains are still to be found in the fabric of everyday life.

Piemonte cuisine is deeply rooted – sometimes literally – in the land. Truffles are the region’s pride and glory, and are an exciting ingredient in so many dishes, from fonduta (fondue) to risotto and roast game. Piemontese cooking is simple and wholesome but substantial, counterpointed by strong flavors and pleasant aromas. Garlic is a key ingredient, and is not shied away from, nor are cream, butter, and cheese. Piemonte produces about half of Italy’s rice, and rice-based dishes like P aniscia di Novara (a vegetable soup with rice) and R isotto all Piemontese (risotto made with meat stock, parmesan, nutmeg and truffle) are delicious regional specialties.

Specialty Foods of Piemonte

The white Alba truffle is the most delicious and sought-after truffle in the world.  This “noble mushroom,” as the ancient Romans called it, is found in the Langhe, the hilly countryside around the town of Alba.  The gathering of white truffles, between October and November, when they have reached the peak of flavor, is a difficult process requiring the knowledge of a trifulau, or professional truffle hunter (and his trained dog) who will keep secret the areas where he knows truffles to grow.  Truffles usually weigh between two and four ounces – and the price can reach 150 to 200 dollars for four ounces. Sliced raw and paper-thin, the rich flavor of the white truffle enhances the flavors of even the simplest local dish, from the simplest tagliolini (thin egg noodles) to the most elaborate beef filet.

Bagna cauda, a delicious dipping sauce made with butter, olive oil, garlic, and anchovies, is served whenever the Piemontese are hungry, usually with a glass of red wine.  The name translates as “hot bath,” because raw vegetables – such as celery, peppers, and artichokes – are dipped into the hot sauce for an explosion of flavor.

Gorgonzola is one of the Italy’s most famous cheeses, and the majority of its producers are based in the Novara area of the Piemonte.  A full-fat cow’s milk cheese, gorgonzola is made from pasteurized milk and inject with Penicillium glaucum, a mold that aids fermentation and produces the cheese’s characteristic blue veins. Gorgonzola has a place on any cheese board, and can be served as an appetizer or at the conclusion of a meal.

Robiola di Roccaverano is a delicate, creamy cheese made in a very limited area between the provinces of Asti and Alessandria in the northwestern region of Piemonte.  This delicious example of the cheesemaker’s art can be made from three different kinds of milk: cow’s, sheep’s or goat’s. According to gourmets all over Italy, Robiola di Roccaverano that is made from 100% goat’s milk is one of the finest of all delicacies, although the mixed versions made from a blend of sheep’s and goat’s milk are also much sought after.

Food Festivals of Piemonte

Truffle Festival
Alba (weekends in October; first two weekends in November)
This festival, which has been in operation for more than 75 years, is filled with events celebrating the highly prized white truffle and draws chefs from around the world. During the festival, the wholesale truffle market is also open to the public, and you can view award-winning truffles or buy truffles directly from the wholesalers.

Raschera and Brus Cheese Festival
Frabosa Soprana (August)
Raschera cheese, made with cow's and sheep's milk, has an ivory color and a fine, delicate flavor; when left to mature, it becomes moderately pungent.  Brus cheese, a fermented cheese also made from cow's and sheep's milk, has a strong flavor and is particularly sought after by gourmets.  This festival also features other cheeses that are made in the Cuneo area.

Pumpkin Festival
Piozzo (October)
The festival features over 120 types of pumpkins, in different shapes and sizes, displayed in old wagons throughout the town. Visitors can sample traditional and nouvelle cuisine-style pumpkin-based dishes.