Sipping a caffé in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Milan’s elegant shopping center; sailing across glorious sun-drenched Lake Como; strolling the cobblestone streets of Bergamo’s old city – the pleasures of Lombardia are many and varied. The best of old and new Italy meet here, from the fast-paced business and cutting-edge fashion center of Milan to stately lakeside villas and remarkable frescoes by 15th-century painter Mantegna in the Ducal Palace of Mantua.  Although the most modern and cosmopolitan of Italy’s regions, Lombardia still retains an old-world spirit that charms and delights.

With Milan’s emphasis on business and the workday, it’s sometimes said that Lombardia contributes little that is unique to the remarkable gastronomy of Italy – everyone is just too busy to cook and eat a leisurely meal. Yet if you visit the family kitchens of the region’s nine provinces, you’ll discover distinctive traditions that are special to the area. Butter is the chief cooking fat (it’s believed that butter was first invented in Lodi, a few miles outside Milan) and cream sauces are more popular here than in other regions of the country. Rice, which is grown in the Po River valley, is served in inspired ways, from classic risotto to soups to dishes made with vegetables, shrimp, meats – even frogs. Fresh fish from the Po River, Lake Garda, or Lake Como, choice salami from Cremona, and the world-famous ossobuco (braised veal shank) are a just a few of the dishes that are unmistakably – and deliciously – Lombardian.

Specialty Foods of Lombardia

The famous Risotto alla Milanese gets its golden hue from the precious spice saffron. Legend has it that the dish came about when a Milanese painter decided to gild the risotto served at his wedding banquet with a harmless gold-colored dye.  Risotto alla Milanese is traditionally served with ossobuco (braised veal shank).

Traditionally made with raisins and candied citron, or with a rich cream filling, the light, fluffy brioche-like bread called panettone may be tall or short, covered with chocolate or flavored with various liquors, but it’s always a symbol of the Christmas season. With its hallmark domed shape, panettone has graced Christmas tables in Milan, where it is claimed to have been invented, since at least the 15th century. The traditional recipe calls for using nothing but white wheat flour, sugar, top-quality butter, eggs, and sultana raisins. In order to safeguard tradition and ensure that panettone is made in the time-honored, non-industrial manner, efforts are currently underway to establish guidelines for ingredients and procedures that will serve as the basis for obtaining a special DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) certification from the European Union.

Taleggio cheese is named for a valley in the province of Bergamo, but it is produced throughout Lombardia. This soft, creamy cow’s milk cheese, which can be dated to a thousand years ago, was traditionally ripened in underground caves; today, it is matured in climate-controlled cellars. Taleggio has a mild, somewhat acidic flavor, and subtle aroma make it ideal for many traditional Lombard dishes, but it’s also used in scores of dishes in other parts of Italy.  Because it melts easily, Taleggio is excellent in omelettes and crepes, or, as the base for a creamy pasta sauce.

The traditional Mostarda di Cremona, from the inland port city of Cremona on the River Po (and the birthplace of violin master Antonio Stradivarius) consisted of candied fruits, such as cherries, figs, and pears, preserved in a mixture of sugar syrup and white mustard. The result was a tangy condiment that was served with boiled, meat, game, or poultry. Today, Mostarda di Cremona is most produced commercially with stewed fruits instead of candied fruits, and lacks the “heat” of the traditional preparation.

Food Festivals of Lombardia

Sagra dell'Asparago (Asparagus Feast)
Cantello (May)
This celebration, which dates back to 1940, is one of the region’s major gastronomical events.  For four days, the town offers asparagus tasting, presents the best local asparagus, and restaurants create special asparagus dishes.

Pizzoccheri Festival
Teglio (June, September)
Pizzoccheri is buckwheat tagliatelle pasta cooked with vegetables and dressed with butter and mountain dairy cheese.

The Frog Festival
Sartirana Lomellina (September)
The festival is held in a small outdoor garden in the town, and delicacies like rice with frog liver, polenta and stewed frog and browned frog are served.